Beginners guide to the Khao San Road
The Khao San Road in Bangkok, Thailand, is possibly the most famous of all of the backpacker districts in the world. It’s one tiny street bustling with everything to sustain and entertain the backpacker. The old, the young, the travel weary and the fresh-faced traveller all mix together here with experienced local traders and young partying Thais.
It is a common first stop for many Europeans on round-the-world tickets and is certainly a suitable wake-up call to the concept of travel and change. Be prepared though, it's by no means the authentic Thai experience. What was once a quiet street with a few stalls is now rapidly developing into a more western influenced area. There's now a McDonalds, a Burger King and even a Starbucks which many (me included) find a great pity. The Khao San Road is the boiling pot of backpacker Bangkok. Here you can book all your trips, buy your last minute souvenirs and partake in bottle of Chang beer or two. At night the street transforms into one big thronging mass, a mix of nationalities from all over fused with the young Thais who are drawn to the vibrant atmosphere.
The usual tuk-tuks and taxi drivers are here - many intent on parting new travellers from their newly-exchanged Baht. It can be hard work getting a fair price with the transport from the Khao San Road - make sure you insist on using the meter rather than a fixed fee. There are lots of taxis, so if someone refuses the meter, just walk on. Tuk- tuks in general are more expensive than taxis and are really only suitable for short journeys. Tuk-tuks don't have meters, so you'll have to use your common sense when pricing a journey. If it sounds too cheap then there is bound to be some kind of con, they are usually more expensive than taxis. Most people get unstuck when they get their taxi to and from the airport. Again, insist upfront on using the meter - i've been quoted ridiculous fixed sums from taxi drivers on the Khao San Road. When they ask for money on the toll roads, read the number that shows up on the booth – that’s the cost (20-40 baht). Give them the toll at each booth, not up front. I would advise not to get taxis that sit directly on the Khao San Road, they tend to be lazy, waiting around for a fat fee rather than give an honest price. Try wandering a little outside the main road.
Bartering, as in many parts of the world is commonplace here and throughout South East Asia. You will get a lot further with a big smile and the fake ‘shocked’ face when you barter. It makes the experience much more pleasant and the trader will be more willing to bend if you make their lives a bit more fun. It’s usually protocol to start from half the asking price and work up from there. Try asking if there is a 'special price' today with the wry smile. If you look new and confused, the more they will try to charge, so try and look savvy. It's a bit like a poker game. Some goods are pretty much fixed price, so don't push your luck too much. Once you get the general feel for the value of the currency you'll get the idea. If you are going to be around Bangkok for the weekend then i'd recommend you go to the weekend market - known as Chatuchak market. It's massive and you can find a lot of bargains there. A local advised me the best time was the end of the Sunday evening, when the prices are at their lowest.
The food on the Khao San Road and surrounds can be great. Many of the main restaurants on the road can be relatively expensive for what you actually get. However, some of the street stalls can offer you amazing food for a fraction of the price. Good cheap food exists on the road running parallel to the Khao San Road and also on the road that stretches around the temple close to the Khao San Road. (see map below). For a quick snack you can't beat the noodle stalls which can knock up a cheap filling Pad Thai for about 20 Baht - or if you have a sweet tooth, there is always the ever present pancake man. If you are feeling particularly adventurous there is always the fried insect stall.
Probably the most urgent thing to find when you arrive here is accommodation, especially at peak times. Most small places won't take advance bookings so its best to just get down there and sort it when you arrive. If it’s your first time in Asia, it might be best to go to one of the more expensive hotels rather than head for the rock bottom priced places, just for a day or two anyway till you get acquainted. Even in the higher priced venues you should look at the room before committing yourself. If you are travelling with a friend or two I would recommend you nominate one person to go round looking for a place. No point all of you trudging up and down the road with your backpacks. While the 'room hunter' goes, the rest can guard the bags with a cold drink! This technique applies to nearly every room finding situation in hot countries, so try and make sure you all take it in turns to do the hunting job.
The Khao San Road is a great place to meet up with other friends you may have met on your travels and it’s great for a break from your flight or bus journey. However I wouldn't recommend you spend too long here - make sure you get to see more of Bangkok and Thailand. If you are going round Thailand or South East Asia for a while, you will probably find yourself back here many times (as I have personally discovered!).
Recommended.
Accommodation:
D&D Inn is right in the centre of the Khao San Road - ideal for your first couple of nights. A lot of refurbishing has happened here and some of the newer rooms are excellent for the price. Watch out for the pool though, it doesn't look like it gets cleaned very often. This is also good for those in wheelchairs as there are very few steps in the entire building. The internet cafe on the roof is also cheap and well maintained.
My Place and Sawadee House, round the back of the temple are cheap and cheerful - and usually easy to get a place.
Food:
The Pad Thai stalls are cheap and good, the side roads to the Khao San Road have some good street stalls, don't be afraid to eat here. One particular favourite of mine is The Four Sons restaurant right behind the temple, a bit further up from Sawadee House. Here has a great menu and usually a good selection of DVDs playing, it's also a lot less hectic here. They also do accommodation but I haven't stayed here.
Photo courtesy of (http://flickr.com/photos/lawley/4918530/)
