Standing at the top of the entrance to Prince Henry Cliff Top Walk in Katoomba, I could almost feel the tension leave my body. Stretching as far as the eye can see is the Blue Mountains National Park, a thick canopy of deep, green forested valleys and steep cliffs surrounding them. You can’t help but take in the biggest breath possible and exhale slowly, not something you do too often if you live in the middle of Sydney.

Deceptively named, you don’t actually climb any mountains here, but hike down into the heart of the valley in front of you. The night before, when arriving in Katoomba, 2 hours train ride from Sydney, a heavy fog hung over the whole area. The next morning, after a night downing a few quiet schooners and a cheap meal at The Family Hotel, the fog was still settled over the valley. But, as we donned our daypacks, map in hand, the fog lifted and lucky for us the sky was blue and the sun came out to play. Not bad for mid-April. However, autumn and spring are actually the best times to visit this area, with low rainfall and mild temperatures making perfect hiking weather.

The most famous landmark people come here to see is the Three Sisters, sandstone rock formations jutting out into the Jamison Valley. You can take the cliff top walk to Echo Point lookout to see them or hike further down to the bottom of the valley on the Federal Pass track, you will still see the Three Sisters if you go this way. There are quite a few options for bush walking in this area, but usually your fitness level and the amount of time you have on your hands will help you decide which one to try. You won’t need to buy a map if you just want to try the basic walks, but do invest in one if you’re feeling more adventurous.

At the start of Prince Henry Cliff Walk, you can either stick to the popular walk along the top or go deeper into the valley towards Leura Cascades and the area known as Fern Bower. I prefer the latter option. The route is usually less populated and the walk has a good variety in types of wilderness and hiking difficulty. Basically time to take a breath . . . occasionally!

The temperature drops as rainforest envelopes you, taking step after step down . . . you almost feel like you must have entered Middle Earth after a while. So far removed from the constant traffic, towering buildings and pace of our daily lives we started to dream all sorts of scenarios up. We were imagining ourselves as just a speck on a giant’s toenail, the scenery dwarfing us, but we kept up a fairly good pace. There are plenty of trickling streams, waterfalls and walkways to look out over the enormous landscape around you. Heading down Federal Pass, constructed in 1893-4 and officially opened in 1900, I started to feel my heart beat that little bit faster and my body temperature rise. The outside air was so cool though that the combination made for a perfect feeling on the surface of my skin.

Signs along the way advise walkers of the vast mix of flora and fauna sharing apace with you. Death adders, tiger snakes and something called a Leura water skink among them. “ If you see a snake it is best to leave it alone,” the National Parks sign says. Bit of an understatement, but handy advice for sure. Happy to report that no snakes wanted to meet us, a tiny grey bush rat did though. It nearly had a heart attack when we came across it on top of a rock, sitting in the sun. The poor thing was petrified, shaking almost, and then it scampered towards a gap between the rocks trying to blend in. The same colour as the rock it pushed its nose into the gap and stood on its hind legs hoping we might not see it anymore, still shaking. Usually I’m the one shaking when I see a rat! A couple of middle aged American women in boots, shorts and big glasses approached and we left them to it, cameras blazing.

For such a tourist mecca we had been lucky enough to meet only a few other hikers on the pass. Taking the alternative route affords you that luxury, but we were jolted back into reality once we reached the Scenic Railway and the boardwalk to the new Scenicender. Busloads of tourists were being ferried up and down the cliff and cramming the walkways. It’s here you can either pay $8 to take the steepest funicular railway in the world to the top or the brand spanking new Scenicender for an extravagant sum. For those with yet more energy and time the Federal Pass continues on to the Golden Stairs, they take you up to Narrow Neck Plateau so you can walk the road back to Katoomba. There is also the Ruined Castle further along as well. The tracks throughout the area are all well maintained and sign posted so you won’t get lost. Do make sure you estimate times well though, it will start to get dark by 5:30/6 pm and there aren’t any lights to guide you.

As mentioned earlier there are dozens of routes you can take, also in surrounding towns along the train line like Wentworth Falls, Blackheath and Leura. There is also the 3 day hike from Katoomba to Jenolan Caves. It’s called the 6 foot track and is 42 km in length. For outdoor adventure hungry people this is one of Australia’s best playgrounds for you. A detailed guide would be your best companion, but rest assured there’s plenty to do. Canyoning, abseiling, rock climbing, hang gliding, horse riding, caving and mountain biking can all be easily arranged in Katoomba.

If you’re visiting Sydney for a short time and you only want to do a day trip, save yourself some moolah and do it yourself. It’s only $14 for a day return ticket if you leave after 9am. It’s easy to be lazy and stay in the city seeking out the cheapest pints possible, but once you take those first few steps down into the rain-forested valley you’ll be glad you made the effort.